Have you ever tried to follow a sewing pattern only to find yourself frustrated by all of the unfamiliar terminology? Perhaps you had no idea where to start sewing your gusset or placket because the instructions told you absolutely nothing useful in terms of constructing them? What the heck are those things anyway and why do we need to sew them? Well, look no further! Mr. Snyde's Comprehensive Sewing Dictionary is here to provide you with the visuals, definitions, guides, and tutorials you may need as you embark on your journey to become an amazing cosplayer!


Notes:
Last updated: 8/22/2016

If you are having a hard time navigating the dictionary, using the keyboard command Ctrl + F will let you search the page for specific keywords.

Although I tried to think of as many words as possible that may show up in a commercial sewing pattern with or without any explanation, this is by no means a complete dictionary. If you find that a word or phrase that is missing from the list or would like to share a resource to the thread, please PM one of your Cosplay Masters (Eternal Knight or Andalusite) and we will see what we can do!

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A


Appliqué - a cutout design that is sewn or ironed onto a piece of fabric.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Shop: Storied Threads Custom Patch Commissions
-------- Video Tutorial: Stitching Appliqué by Hand
-------- Video Tutorial: Stitching Appliqué by Machine


Armscye - the sleeve hole size that you are most comfortable wearing. It is measured from the top of your shoulder, down the front of your shoulder, under your armpit, and up the back of your shoulder.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Video Tutorial: Measuring the Armscye

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B


Backstitching - the strongest handstitch technique. It can be used to create the appearance of a continuous line, sew on a zipper by hand, or improve previously sewn seams. When sewing on a machine, backstitching can be used to substitute tying off knots at the thread ends, so that seams are held in place and will not unravel once sewn.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Video Tutorial: Backstitching by Hand (Embroidery)
-------- Tutorial: Backstitching by Hand with Burda Style
-------- Video Tutorial: Backstitching by Machine


Basting - a technique that uses a long running stitch to temporarily hold pieces of fabric together; gather/ruffle a piece of fabric; mark the placement of a stitching line; or show the direction of the fabric. Basting stitches are produced by either setting the sewing machine's stitch length to the highest available setting (4-5), or by taking a sewing needle and sewing up, down, up, down through the fabric to produce ~1/2" (1.3 cm) or larger stitches.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Video Tutorial: Sewing a Basting Stitch by Hand
-------- Video Tutorial: Sewing a Basting Stitch by Machine


Bias - the 45° angle that intersects the length of the grain (warp) and the cross grain (weft) of a piece of woven fabric.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Cutting along the Bias with Burda Style
-------- A Guide to Working on the Bias


Binding - a long strip of fabric used to decorate and finish edges. Binding is typically cut along the bias because it allows the strip to conform better to curves such as necklines and arm holes. Bias tape is one of the most common forms of binding. It is readily available at most craft stores and can be purchased on Etsy in bulk rolls.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Tutorial: Understanding and Making Bias Tape
-------- Tutorial: Bias Binding: Figuring Yardage, Cutting, Making, Attaching


Bodice - refers to the part of a dress covering the body between the neck/shoulders and waist
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Tutorial: How Draft a Basic Bodice Pattern

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C


Cross-Stitch - also known as the herringbone stitch or the catch stitch, the cross-stitch is used to finish a hem or tack facings.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Video Tutorial Cross-stitch (Herringbone Stitch)
-------- Video Tutorial: Catch Stitch (/Herringbone Stitch/Cross-stitch)


Crosswise Grain - also known as the weft, it is the grain of the fabric going across the width of the fabric from selvage to selvage.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:

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D


Dart - used to provide more shape to garments especially in the bust, waist, or shoulder area. On pattern pieces, they typically look like triangular wedges.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Tutorial: How to Sew Darts

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E


Ease - 1) the amount of room a garment has beyond the measurements of the wearer's body;
2) "describes the even distribution of slight fullness when one section of a seam is joined to a slightly shorter section without forming gathers or tucks. The technique is used to shape set-in sleeves, princess seams and other areas" -Burda Style
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Sewing Sleeves with Ease
-------- Sewing Essentials: The Importance of Ease
-------- Video Tutorial: Sewing in a Set-in Sleeve
-------- Printable Patternmaking Tools


Easestitch - a type of stitch used to create a slight gather in a larger piece of fabric so that it will match up with the ends of a smaller piece of fabric. The easestitch is commonly used to set-in fitted sleeves.
--------Visual: Credit: http://aces.nmsu.edu
--------Resources:
-------- Video Tutorial: The Easestitch
-------- The Easestitch


Edgestitch - a stitch that is typically done 1/8" (~ .3 cm) from the edge of a seam or hem to hold the fabric layers together and produce a sharper finish. It is very similar to the topstitch.
--------Visual: Credit: www.sewmaris.com
--------Resources:
-------- Video: The Differences between Edgestitching and Topstitching
-------- Video Tutorial: How to Edgestitch a Hem
-------- How to Edgestitch and Topstitch

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F


Facing - two pieces of fabric are sewn right sides together (wrong sides visible) and then turned right side out to enclose the raw edges and the wrong sides of the facing and fabric, thus giving the garment a finished appearance.  
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Tutorial: Neckline Facings
-------- Tutorial: How to Draft a Facing
-------- On the Inside: How to Use Interlining, Lining, Facing and Interfacing
-------- Facing Sewing Term - A Part of Garment Construction


Finish raw edge (& seam) - process that gives the edges and seams of a garment a clean, professional look while also reinforcing them so that they do not readily fray or tear when the garment is washed or worn.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Video Tutorial: How to Professionally Finish Seams without a Serger
-------- Tutorial: How to Finish Seams with Zigzag Stitch
-------- Tutorial: The Flat-Felled Seam
-------- Tutorial: The French Seam
-------- Tutorial: Turning Under Seams to Finish Them
-------- Seam Finishes Simplified

Fitting - process of trying on and adjusting a pattern and/or sewn garment until it yields the desired appearance on a body.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Video Tutorial: How To Adjust a Tight Bodice Neck by Sure-Fit Designs
-------- Get the Right Armhole, Fit the Bodice
-------- PPT: Guide to Fitting Shoulders
-------- Tutorial: How to Re-fit a Button-down Shirt to Your Size
-------- Guide to Fitting Bust, Waist, and Hip Position
-------- PDF Guide Solving Fitting Issues
-------- Garment Creation: Fitting

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G


Gather - sewing instruction simply meaning to pull along a line of (basted) stitching so that the fabric puckers. Gathering is usually done to add fullness to a garment, fit larger pieces of fabric with smaller pieces, and create ruffles.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Tutorial: How to Gather Fabric
-------- Video Tutorial: Three Ways to Gather Fabric
-------- Video Tutorial: Gathering Fabric by Hand


Grainline - "Direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage (a stretchier grain is found running perpendicular to the selvage). Commercial patterns have an arrow on them <-----> indicating direction of the grain to assit in laying out the pattern pieces correctly." -www.sewingpatterns.com
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Guide: A Basic Explanation of Grainlines
-------- Tutorial: Finding the Fabric Grain


Gusset - a strip of fabric that is inserted between two pieces of joining fabric to provide more flexibility to the wearer. (After all, a gusset's original function was to make clothing easier to move around in and more comfortable to wear! )
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Tutorial: Gussets
-------- Video Tutorial: How to Create and Insert a Gusset

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H


Hem - the edge of a garment (eg. bottom of a pant leg, a sleeve cuff) that has been folded back and finished to prevent it from fraying or ripping.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:

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I


Interfacing - a special sheet of  fabric that is sometimes placed between the outer fabric and the lining to stiffen/define parts of a garment and reinforce seams. Interfacing comes in various weights; can be woven, non-woven, or knit; and can be purchased as either iron-on or sew in.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Shop: Pellon Interfacing
-------- Guide: Interfacing 101
-------- Understanding Interfacings
-------- Tutorial: How to Attach Non-fusible Interfacing
-------- Tutorial: How to Attach Fusible Interfacing

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J

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K

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L


Lengthwise Grain - also known as the warp, it is the grain of the fabric going along the length of the fabric (ei parallel to the selvages) from cut end to cut end.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:


Lining - fabric sewn to the inside of a garment to hide seams and make it more comfortable to wear.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- How to Choose the Best Lining Fabric

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M


Muslin - very cheap fabric (< $2.99/yd) used to test out patterns and/or make fitting adjustments to preexisting patterns before sewing the actual garment
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Video Tutorial: Making and Using a Muslin

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N


Narrow Hem - is a hem that is turned up about 1/8" (.3 cm) or 1/4" (.6 cm) and then sewn.
--------Visual: Credit: foursquarewalls.blogspot.com
--------Resources:
-------- Three Ways to Sew a Narrow Hem
-------- Video Tutorial: How to Sew a Narrow Hem by Machine

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O

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P


Placket - A finished opening or slit in a garment. The button-up front of a jacket or a cuff are common examples of plackets.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Tutorial: Continuous Bound Placket
-------- Tutorial: Continuous Lap Placket
-------- Video Tutorial: Continuous Placket


Press - a direction commonly seen on commercial patterns; it means to take an iron to your seams to press them open, down, etc. so that they lay flat when the garment is worn. *See tutorials for explanation on properly pressing seams*
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Pressing Matters: Why Press Seams as You Sew?
-------- Tutorial: How to Make a Seam Lay Flat  (Pressing)

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Q

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R


Raw edge - the outer perimeter of a piece of fabric that has not been finished with a serger, zig zag stitch, etc. Unfinished edges tend to fray on woven fabrics.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:


Right Side - the side that shows on the outside of the completed garment.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Which Side of the Fabric is the Right Side?
-------- How to be Sure of the Right Side on Plain Fabrics

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S


Seam allowance - the distance between the seam and the raw edge of the fabric. The seam allowance on a commercial sewing pattern is assumed to be 5/8" (1.6 cm) unless otherwise stated in the sewing instructions.
--------Visual: Modified from Wikipedia
--------Resources:


Selvage/selvedge - the factory-finished edges on a bolt of fabric. On patterned fabrics, the selvage usually contains the company name and the designer. On patternless fabrics, you will notice little pin holes along the selvage. Note: When a store cuts fabric, they do so perpendicularly to the selvage, so you will always have a selvage on both sides of your piece.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:



Slipstitch - also known as the ladder stitch or the blind hem, the slipstitch is used when you do not want the stitch or hem to show on the right side of a piece of fabric.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Video Tutorial: Slipstitch
-------- Video Tutorial: Invisible Stitching (Slipstitch/Ladder Stitch)


Staystitch - a stitch that helps prevent curved edges, such as the neckline, from stretching during garment construction.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Video Tutorial: How to Staystitch

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T


Topstitch - a decorative stitch that is typically sewn 1/4" from the edge of a seam. It is very similar to the Easestitch because it can also hold fabric together near a seam to produce a sharper finish.
--------Visual: Credit: www.lladybird.com
--------Resources:
-------- Video: The Differences between Edgestitching and Topstitching
-------- Video Tutorial: Topstitching
-------- Video Tutorial: How to Edgestitch and Topstitch


Trim - decorative elements such as ribbon, lace, ruffles, or tassels
--------Visual:
--------Resources:

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U

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V

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W


Warp - also known as the lengthwise grain, it is the grain of the fabric going along the length of the fabric (ei parallel to the selvages) from cut end to cut end.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:


Weft - also known as the crosswise grain, it is the grain of the fabric going across the width of the fabric from selvage to selvage.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:


Wrong Side - The side that does not show on the outside of the completed garment.
--------Visual:
--------Resources:
-------- Which Side of the Fabric is the Right Side?
-------- How to be Sure of the Right Side on Plain Fabrics

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X

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Y

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Z

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